Karley Sciortino: the sex blogger and Slutever presenter redefining sexuality

Sciortino a real-life Carrie Bradshaw uses humour, parody and satire to open up conversations about sex

In an early episode of Slutever, the new web series presented by 32-year-old Vogue columnist Karley Sciortino, viewers met sex doll engineer Matt, a goateed dude in cargo shorts who waxed soulful: I dont think the English language has enough words to describe love, enough words to describe affection, enough words to describe attraction. Its this humanity within so-called deviancy that delights and drives Sciortino, a woman whos building a small empire on the reclamation of the word slut. As she writes in her newly published book, also called Slutever (subtitle: Dispatches from a Sexually Autonomous Woman in a Post-Shame World): A slut is someone who has no moral obstacle between themselves and their desire to enjoy sex.

On the afternoon we meet, in the well-upholstered hush of Manhattans Ludlow House (annual membership $3,200), Sciortino, blonde and with a big, gorgeous gummy grin, is serving up the impervious polish of a Whit Stillman heroine pink satin mini-dress, black patent Mary Janes, a boxy cream jacket with gold buttons that may or may not be Chanel. Its a femmey aesthetic that feels undercut with pastiche. As she eyerolls in one opening sequence to her Viceland TV show: Ugh, life is so hard between meeting my blog deadlines and performing my gender I barely have time to get anything done. On set, she and her all-female team (excepting their token male cinematographer) called this pink fantasia of a boudoir the brain room which is not what it looks like, she admits. Its super labial, I offer. Yes, exactly, she laughs. Sex is such a tense subject so I think that humour and parody and satire and being able to make fun of yourself are really disarming when opening up that conversation.

The opening sequence, she says, was an opportunity to play into this parody of the dumb blonde slut, specifically, the one we understand to be the most indomitable in the room, if not exactly the smartest. Its an archetype that immediately summons Carrie Bradshaw and that endlessly parodied voiceover refrain It got me thinking In 2018, Sciortino has made Sex and the Citys central improbability a reality she actually does have a popular sex column, she actually does live in the West Village as a financially successful sex writer. In Breathless, her column for Vogue.com, where she interrogates familiar relationship themes like jealousy and dating apps, shes a virtuoso of the hair-twirling question (Would I fuck a Republican?) turned assertive (When a person votes Republican, theyre effectively voting against my right to be an openly sexual person while protecting my physical and mental well-being. Theyre voting against comprehensive sex education, against free access to contraception, against abortion, against gay rights, against sex work.) Its a winning mode, this slide from dumb to disquisitive.

Whats that saying when you cover your vegetables in sugar? she says, moving from peppermint tea to a Bloody Mary. Its like forcing people to rethink something with a cultural stigma around it, where theres this default negative assumption.

For her new show she and her team sought out topics and people that we can really find joy and levity in. These human stories include the curious intimacy between Mistress Lucy Sweetkill, a professional dominatrix, and Pain Puppy, her lifestyle slave. After witnessing a particularly intense dungeon session between them, Sciortino speaks to camera, visibly moved: I realise its counterintuitive to leave a scene where someones being beaten until they bleed and say it was a sweet moment, but it did feel that way.

Sciortino is one of those glamorous faces photographed regularly on the downtown Manhattan party scene and she tends to be described online as a New York Cool Girl a millennial upgrade on It girl. Sexual anecdotes, after all, are good social currency. Her book brims with braggy, often very funny sexploits, but the most honest passages deal with the uncertainty of what sex is. One chapter, in fact, is titled Wait What Is Sex, Even? another valid question dressed up in a ditzy outfit. When Im out in the world, she writes, everyone perceives me as a straight girl with a low IQ. But then she falls in love with Alice and, with this first proper lesbian relationship, I felt like I was being shown new possibilities for what my life could look like. Those new possibilities included sex, of course. As Sciortino explains, Alice was gender queer and didnt like to be touched and penetrated, which I think is common for a lot of women who fall on the masculine end of the gender spectrum. My idea of sex is constantly expanding.

We are becoming increasingly moralistic around certain aspects of sexuality: Karley Sciortino at home in New York. Photograph: Caroll Taveras for the Observer

Sciortino grew up in a conservative Catholic family in a small upstate New York town. Theres two ways that upbringing can go, she says. One is you follow the model of repression and have a lot of shame around your sexuality. Or you use that shame as a tool to just be sort of a maniac. In case this isnt obvious, she went for option two. At the age of 21 she was living in London in a squat, doing a lot of drugs and having a lot of sex. Back then sex was, a tool of provocation for me, truly just a form of transgressive rebellion. She started a blog, Slutever, and quickly amassed a following. Her mothers major fear was that her daughter would come to regret having written about the orgies of her 20s but Sciortino rejects the idea that promiscuity is something you grow out of, or that its an obligational regret.

When I would write about sex it would be in this word-vomity way, but I wasnt woke, she says. And, true story, someone in an early interview I did about my blog asked me if I considered myself a feminist, and I didnt really know that much about feminism. People were like, Oh your writing is feminist! and I was like, I should probably read the feminism Wikipedia page.

Shes since embraced a feminism beyond the rudiments of a Wiki entry in her book she namechecks Nora Ephron, quotes from contemporary academic Feona Attwood and engages with Camille Paglias writing on sex work. Nonetheless, Sciortinos attitudes dont necessarily align with prevailing orthodoxies. For example: I do think that identity politics and the endless desire to be offended by everything prevent us from having important conversations a lot of the time. And: I dont think sexual fragility is useful. I think it gets very muddy when we assume men are predatory and that women are victims. Men need to be educated on the nuances of consent, but this cant just be labelled a male problem. We also have to think about female sexual responsibility and the ways in which women can and should protect themselves.

Among the sorry cavalcade of powerful men accused of sexual harassment post-Weinstein were several high-ranking Vice executives. Sciortino, whos been employed by Vice for almost a decade, is sanguine. I think its important to remember that Vice employs tens of thousands of people across the world. Im not saying its justified, but Im saying that no matter what the company is, people are people and there is going to be misconduct in interpersonal relationships in a company that large. Vice finds itself, then, broadcasting a sex show as it deals with the highly unsexy fallout of a worldwide reckoning. This, of course, is not Sciortinos fault: why cant her show just be what it is a funny, sexy pleasure where the progressive politics are incidental?

As Sciortino sees it: Were in this time where we can talk about sex more than ever and the double standard is starting to fade, and yet we are becoming increasingly moralistic around certain aspects of sexuality. She cites regressive conversations about consent on campuses as an example: Women are asking for more protection and identifying more as damsels in distress who cant take sexual responsibility for themselves.

The most regressive forces of all, however, are surely those emanating from the White House. When a man accused of multiple counts of sexual harassment became the 45th President of the United States, Sciortino, like everyone else, did some re-evaluation. I think its made me feel: OK, focus more on the thing youre good at and do that. In this era of the Womens March its affirmed for me that talking about female sexual autonomy is important. Not everyones time is best spent marching. Simply, emphatically, she adds: Do what you do.

Slutever premieres Wednesday 2nd May, 10pm on VICE (Sky Channel 183, Talk Talk Channel 338)

Read more: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/apr/29/karley-sciortino-the-sex-blogger-and-slutever-presenter-redefining-sexuality

Unlike Hillary Clinton, I have never wanted to be someones wife

After writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie grilled the former US presidential candidate about why the first word on her Twitter bio is wife, Clinton said she would think about changing it. Why do women still let their domestic roles define them?

Hillary Clinton: Wife, mom, grandma, women+kids advocate, Flotus, senator, SecState, hair icon, pantsuit aficionado, 2016 presidential candidate. To be clear, this is not how Wide Awoke would describe Clinton. Its her own Twitter biography and Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie writer, Nigerian, feminist, woman screw it, lets just go with writer, like Martin Amis does is not happy that the first woman in history to have had a shot at the US top job is leading with wife.

I have to confess that I felt just a little bit upset, Adichie admitted during an interview with Clinton at the PEN World Voices festival. And then I looked at your husbands Twitter account, and the first word was not husband. Of course, it wasnt. His bio is: Founder, Clinton Foundation and 42nd president of the United States. Because thats who he is and how he is valued. We live in a world where presidents are men and their wives are first ladies: a job so inherently sexist it demands the women sorry, ladies who acquire it to abandon professions and opinions of their own in order to further their husbands careers.

There is nothing wrong with being a wife or mother. Some of the greatest joys of being alive come from your relationships, with partners and children as opposed to, you know, acing it at an appraisal. But I have never wanted to be anyones wife. I am civilly partnered to a woman, and the mother of two children. Neither my partner nor I would dream of calling each other wife any more than we would call each other husband (to be fair, I cant stand that word). These roles define my life but they dont define me. I dont mind belonging to other people (as long as they belong to me too), but I dont want it to constitute my identity or worth.

Describing women as wives and mothers is often used as lazy, misogynistic shorthand to diminish their other achievements. Who can forget when the Associated Press referred to Amal Clooney as an actors wife instead of a world-class human rights lawyer? Consider how often the prime minister of New Zealand, Jacinda Ardern, is called upon to provide a running commentary on her uterus. And notice, always, the double standard: while society insists on reducing women to their domestic roles, how little are we genuinely valued in the daily performing of them?

Read more: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/apr/23/unlike-hillary-clinton-i-have-never-wanted-to-be-someones-wife

MSNBC’s Joy Reid sorry for ‘hateful’ blogs she does not believe she wrote

Regarding blogposts from when she was covering Florida politics, TV host says hired experts have not proved she was hacked

The MSNBC host Joy Reid, under fire for allegedly using homophobic language in old blogposts, apologized on Saturday for any comments that belittled or mocked the LGBT community and said she had not been able to verify her claim her account was hacked.

Reid opened her weekend show AM Joy by acknowledging she had said dumb and hurtful things. The person I am now is not the person I was then, she said.

But she was unable to explain blogposts from a decade ago that mocked gay people and individuals who were allegedly gay. Reid has denied posting the remarks but said she had hired security experts found no proof she had been hacked.

I genuinely do not believe I wrote those hateful things because they are completely alien to me, she said. But I can definitely understand, based on things I have tweeted and have written in the past, why some people dont believe me.

I have not been exempt for being dumb or cruel or hurtful to the very people I want to advocate for. I own that. I get it. And for that I am truly, truly sorry.

The posts that came to light in December were written for The Reid Report, Reids blog when she was covering Florida politics a decade ago. In posts, she refers to the then Florida governor Charlie Crist as Miss Charlie and suggests he was ogling the male waiters on his honeymoon after marrying his wife, whom he has since divorced.

Reid questioned whether the Crist marriage was a sham by a gay man who thought it would help him politically.

Reid apologized, saying her remarks were insensitive, tone deaf and dumb. On Saturday, she apologized also to the conservative commentator Ann Coulter for using transgender stereotypes to describe her.

This week, Mediaite revealed a set of other supposed blogposts. In one, Reid supposedly notes that most straight people cringe at the sight of two men kissing and writes that she could not see the movie Brokeback Mountain because she did not want to watch two male characters having sex.

Another supposed post says that a lot of heterosexuals find the idea of homosexual sex to be gross and that there are concerns that gay men tend to be attracted to young, post-pubescent types and want to bring them into the lifestyle.

Reid has said the posts were fabricated and run counter to my personal beliefs and ideology. She reiterated that on Saturday but acknowledged she has made hateful comments and has hopefully grown as a person.

I look back today at some of the ways Ive talked casually about people and gender identity and sexual orientation, and I wonder who that even was, she said. But the reality, like a lot of people in this country, that person was me.

After reading her five-minute statement, Reid then led a panel discussion on gender stereotypes and issues facing the LGBT community.

Read more: https://www.theguardian.com/media/2018/apr/28/msnbc-joy-reid-sorry-lgbt-hateful-blogposts

Fashion week job swap: could I become an Instagram star?

Social media stars are wielding increasing power in the fashion industry; what happens when Jess Cartner-Morley trades places with influencer Doina Ciobanu?

The front row is a world divided. Montagues and Capulets, in bare legs rather than doublet and hose. Between the two blocs editors on the one hand, influencers on the other there is little love lost. Last autumn, American Vogue staffers branded the influencers pathetic, describing the job as turning up, looking ridiculous, posing, twitching in your seat as you check your social media feeds. The influencers hit back, branding their Vogue attackers as haughty and out of touch. (Get back to your Werthers Originals, was a particularly choice comeback.) We think they are airheads; they think we are fogeys. So, to find out whos right, I have arranged a job swap at London fashion week. Doina Ciobanu is 22, has 225,000 followers on Instagram (at time of writing), and attends shows as a model, VIP guest and brand ambassador. Ciobanu grew up in the former Soviet republic of Moldova, where she began blogging aged 16. She moved to Bucharest at 19, and now lives in London. For Saturday at London Fashion Week, I will do her job and she will do mine.

My job is to write about the shows. Writing to deadline frames my days and everything else designer interviews, checking out up-and-comers, analysing emerging trends has to fit around that. Doinas job is to provide online content, mostly self-portraits with fairly brief captions, some of which are arranged in collaboration with labels whose clothes or beauty products she wears in the photos. I am an expert; Doina is an avatar.

Julien Macdonald is interviewed by Doina Ciobanu. Photograph: David Newby for the Guardian

The unspoken fashion editor dress code is low-key. Black trousers and a navy jumper is fine. The goalposts have shifted over the past decade, as fashion week has become a more public event but still. Today, however, I am an influencer. So my first outfit is a new-season Gucci logo T-shirt, Mih wide-legged, floor-sweeping jeans, a checked Simone Rocha jacket with puffy sleeves, to which I have added my own black Nicholas Kirkwood shoes and a cherry-red Alexander McQueen bag that is many years old. The outfit feels cumbersome, both literally (I cant get the belt to sit right, and Im terrified of tripping over the hem of the jeans) and figuratively. It takes up a lot of mental space, being dressed like this.

I meet with Doina in a Pret near London Wall, around the corner from the Julien Macdonald show. She has come dressed as a journalist, in jeans and a black sweater, with her hair in a bun. But she doesnt look like a journalist at all, not just because the sweater is a fancy one that Julien sent over this morning for her to wear to the show, but because she is 22 and, like most of the new wave of influencers, absurdly beautiful. Imagine Kendall Jenner crossed with Emily Ratajkowski, and you get the idea: not just gorgeous, but with a specific aesthetic that is millennial catnip. Eyes disproportionately large, cheekbones defined even in repose, she looks like an animated Snapchat filter.

Doinas favourite book, she tells me, is Platos Republic. She reads newspapers in English the Wall Street Journal and the Financial Times but fiction in Russian. (A lot of things in life, you can express them better in Russian.) Her life plan is first to build a brand along the lines of Chiara Ferragni, aka The Blonde Salad, the 29-year-old Italian influencer who has built a personal brand worth an estimated 10m, and then to become the first female president of Moldova. I have plenty of time, she says. I will do this first, and then, when I am 40, perhaps I will go into politics. I am 43. What have I been doing with all my time?

Outside the show, Doina greets the streetstyle photographers with kisses before obligingly recrossing the road so they can get a better shot of her arriving. And then crossing the road again, so they can get the shot again. And again, and again. She does this eight or nine times, allowing each photographer to capture the same reportage-style shot of her, apparently serenely indifferent to the lens. These images will appear on streetstyle blogs; the photographers will tag her, so she can find and regram the images.

Jess outside a show at London fashion week 2017. Photograph: David Newby for the Guardian

Being Doina is a complex business. Some brands pay her to model in their social media marketing, others pay her to endorse their products. An agent negotiates fees. He looks at what a regular model would get paid, and at what a top celebrity would get paid, and pitches me somewhere in the middle, she explains. A brand will send Doina images or samples of a new seasons products it could be a mascara or a piece of jewellery and if I like the brand and it fits my aesthetic, she will select pieces she is happy to endorse. But many posts are unsponsored, starring Doina in clothes she has bought or borrowed. These reinforce her aesthetic and voice, and build following.

The resistance of the fashion establishment to the likes of Doina is one part anxiety (the elite always fear becoming obsolete), one part snobbery (there have always been It girls who got photographed outside shows, but they used to be debutantes, the goddaughters of the elite, not young women from Moldova), and one part ethical suspicion that there is something compromised or false about the influencer role. This last part is tricky to unpick. Authenticity means something different for Doinas generation than for mine. A tiny example: halfway through our day, a shot appears on Doinas Instagram account of her in a cafe, captioned much-needed coffee between shows; we havent stopped for coffee. But when I bring it up, she is politely nonplussed by how baffled I am. In the run-up to busy periods, she explains, she will often prepare posts so as to have appropriate content ready to go. That the photo wasnt taken on the day doesnt strike her as in any way fake. Her social media isnt a logbook of her life, its a contemporaneous brand-strategy document. So long as shes the one calling the shots, then it is true to herself, because it is true to her vision of herself.

To Doina, being independent of commercial alliance is not aspirational. A generation who have grown up dreaming of becoming personal brands do not treat brands with suspicion. Now that every man and woman is her own brand, The Man is the bogeyman no more. If the designer of a dress she likes will pay Doina to wear that dress, thats not a compromise, its win-win. Indeed, she sees herself as a force for good. I want to get involved in female rights in eastern Europe, because no one is fighting for this, she says. Moldova is one of the poorest countries in Europe, and its female population face significant discrimination. A 2010 study by the National Bureau of Statistics found that 63% of women had experienced psychological, physical or sexual violence from their husband or partner. In her efforts to use her profile to help the cause, Doina has been in touch with UN Women in Moldova, and with Versace, who are very interested in talking about female empowerment, she adds, as if the UN and Versace were two comparable platforms.

Doinas business model is resolutely digital, but her aesthetic is absolutely within the glossy magazine tradition. Her Instagram is all bubble baths in chic hotel rooms, soulful evening strolls along the Seine. My content is always aspirational, she says, and that takes time. I cant take a photo if theres litter on the pavement. So there is, inevitably, a disconnect between the carefree tone of her content and the effort required. The Julien Macdonald show runs half an hour late, so its a race against the clock across to London to a meet-and-greet for influencers with Gigi Hadid at the Tommy Hilfiger store, an appointment that is as significant in Doinas diary as any fashion show. Hadid, with nearly 32m followers on Instagram, is digital fashion royalty.

Doina greets photographers outside a London fashion week show. Photograph: David Newby for the Guardian

During fashion week, my life involves a lot of small talk with whoever I happen to be seated next to. But in Doinas world, communication through a screen trumps talking to the people who are around you every time. Its a numbers game: if an influencer has to choose between talking to the thousands of people who are with her on social media or the three people in her taxi, she will naturally prioritise the thousands. In the cab on the way to Knightsbridge, she breaks off our conversation to post a video on her Instagram story telling her followers that she is in a cab on the way to Knightsbridge. At the Tommy Hilfiger shop, influencers nod greetings to each other and get on with the business of posting photos to their followers. After the rush to get here, Hadid is running late and I am now regretting having passed up the opportunity to eat at Pret. The room is lavishly catered with beautiful food that does not seem intended for actual consumption. There are miniature burgers, but the beef patties are sandwiched between macaroons rather than bread buns. It looks shareable, but only in the digital sense. When Hadid arrives, she and Doina say hello and then, even before Doina has lifted her phone aloft, they both automatically fluff their hair and position their faces next to each other for a selfie video, which Doina immediately posts on her Instagram with the caption keep running into this beauty.

By now I am starving. But theres no time to stop, because we are racing back along the river for a fly-by visit to the Astley Clarke presentation at the Institution of Engineering next to the Savoy hotel, before a two-mile dash north to Bloomsbury and the JW Anderson show. Doinas sweet face clouds over when she realises she has been neglecting her Snapchat over the last couple of hours. If I forget, she says, my mum or boyfriend will text to nag me about it. She works every day from morning until midnight or 2am. At Christmas, she took three days off from social media. Those were my only days off in the past three years, she says. This is the only time I hear Doina being remotely negative about anything. Being an influencer might be hard work, but to make it lucrative it has to be aspirational, so you have to look like you are having fun at all times.

Doina and Jess arrive at a show. Photograph: David Newby for the Guardian

One of the key differentiators between editors and influencers is that while we wear the same clothes all day, give or take a 9pm black tie upgrade, influencers will often change into an outfit by the designer of each show they attend. So, on the way to JW Anderson, I commandeer the backseat of a British Fashion Council car to change into a skirt and shirt by the designer. The stress of being in my bra and knickers in broad daylight, fumbling to fasten shirt buttons in time to make the next show, rattles me more than any copy deadline does. I completely forget to put the coordinating earrings on, and give up on changing shoes, because the skirt is much too long and has a tentacle-shaped hemline that I swear is trying to kill me. But it turns out you do have to suffer for fashion. The killer skirt works. The photographers outside the show love it, and my picture ends up on American Vogues Best Street Style Pics from Londons Fall 2017 Shows. Still, you can tell Im not meant to be there: everyone else in the gallery is studiously avoiding eye contact with the photographer for the preferred candid format. I am smiling at the camera. Total sophistication fail.

Doina is much better at my job than I am at hers. After the show, we head to Emilia Wickstead, and soon afterwards she files her reviews to me for feedback. They are excellent. From her Julien Macdonald review: Female empowerment is a term du jour. But where New Yorks designers offered up feminism in the guise of slogan tees, Macdonald interpreted it through his concept of a future where clothes are made on-demand, tailored to the shape of every woman.

We go our separate ways for a short time, and when I see her again at the 9pm Versus show, I am reminded of the famous quote about Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire: that she did everything he did, backwards and in high heels. Doina has used the hour to change out of her jeans and into a fuchsia tuxedo suit with a black lace camisole and spike-heeled sandals. And me? I ate a pizza.

Doinas week as Jess: Im probably having more fun

I work hard at the fashion shows, but Im not going to pretend its not glamorous. You can see that on my Instagram feed, where Im skipping down a crumbling staircase in Paris or posing in a Louis Vuitton minidress in Milan. What you dont see is the behind-the-scenes effort: the months of meetings beforehand, the Google doc full of contact details for designers, so I dont end up wearing the same Gucci loafers as everyone else. You dont see the last-minute panics on show day: changing my outfit in the car while my driver tactfully waits on the pavement; shoving protein bars into my mouth between appointments.

Doina Ciobanu at a launch party in London. Photograph: David Benett

Ive always been fascinated by the journalists I see at fashion week. I like how serious they look. They are in their own world, while Im talking to my followers on my two phones. Were both working, but I feel like Im probably having more fun. I love print journalism; I love to feel a magazine in my hands; I know some people think its irrelevant these days, but I really hope that is not the case.

The Guardians fashion team asked me to make like a journalist and wear one simple outfit, rather than get changed between the shows. That was a liberation: no desperate rush to find somewhere to change. I even had time to buy a coffee.

At the Julien Macdonald show, it felt very strange to be taking notes, rather than pictures. Its such a tight space on the front row that a notebook and pen were useless. As soon as the clapping had finished, I rushed backstage, as instructed, to grab a quote. Macdonald was friendly, but I was in a crush of other journalists, everyone is muscling in, trying to congratulate him or ask questions. I had to manage all that, and say something intelligent, and take notes, too. Its very different from meeting a designer as an influencer, when Ill kiss them on the cheek and say, I love your clothes, and theyll say, You look beautiful, and thats it.

I wrote the review on my phone, while walking down the street between shows. It was stressful. Im used to writing one thing quickly on Instagram; I dont need to give that a lot of thought. But a lot of people are going to read this, and theres an additional layer of stress that comes from knowing that its the Guardian.

My next assignment, an Emilia Wickstead report, was harder. We were short of time, so I didnt go backstage to speak to her and had to come up with an analysis on my own. It was the end of the day, I was hungry, I was tired, my brain wasnt working. I started writing the piece on the way home; the deadline seemed impossibly soon and I was anxious to make it good.

I studied political science and history, so I love understanding the cause of events. Being a journalist for a day gave me a chance to flex those analytic muscles; as an influencer, you simply look at what looks good on people, what you think people would like. Id love to use my brain more in that way in the future, by getting more involved in activism, using my following for good. But I wouldnt be a journalist. Im an independent soul. Usually, when Im working, Im the brand. As a journalist, its not about you.

Doinas Julien Macdonald review

All hail female empowerment. Or so indicated designer Julien Macdonald backstage after successfully debuting his autumn/winter 2017 collection.

Female empowerment, feminism and their ilk are the terms du jour for the fashion set right now. New York fashion week gave collection after collection where womens rights were the focus. But where New Yorks designers offered up feminism in the guise of slogan tees and underwear surely destined for fame as a hashtag, Macdonald interpreted it through his concept of a future where technology has such an impact on fashion that clothes are made on demand, tailored to the shape of every individual woman.

For Macdonald that is, of course, a particular style of clothing and a particular type of woman. One empowered, one confident. If feminism is a thread that runs through Macdonalds winter 2017 collection, its the same feminism that the likes of Emily Ratajkowski can be found celebrating: that a woman can express herself and her person at a time of her choosing, Laura Mulveys male gaze be damned. Appropriate, then, that Ratajkowski has done much justice to Macdonalds designs before now.

Macdonald does a style and he does it well. His hallmark spiderweb dresses are still to be found, but increasingly with straighter lines and alongside dresses offering a sleeker and more futuristic vision. Macdonald told me that his inspiration was modern architecture, big cities [and] the metropolis. His autumn/winter 2017 may be inspired by a future landscape, but theres also an air of the imagined future that the likes of Fritz Lang once saw for us. Nostalgia, the present, and the future always go hand in hand.

Read more: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/apr/07/fashion-week-job-swap-jess-cartner-morley-doina-ciobanu-instagram

Trump gets flamed: robot prints and burns president’s tweets

Twitter users warm to a robot that replies to presidents tweets by replying with a clip of his thoughts printed and set alight

A robot that prints out Trumps tweets and burns them has caught the imagination of Twitter users.

The account @burnedyourtweet appeared on Tuesday, first responding to a Trump tweet about Fox and Friends:

Burned Your Tweet (@burnedyourtweet)

@RealDonaldTrump I burned your tweet. pic.twitter.com/AfXAGudig8

March 28, 2017

The robot prints off a tweet, cuts it and then drags the paper over to a lighter before discarding the ashes. Since it began tweeting, it has amassed almost 20,000 followers.

From yet another swipe at the New York Times

Burned Your Tweet (@burnedyourtweet)

.@RealDonaldTrump I burned your tweet. pic.twitter.com/oOkFcSOGir

March 30, 2017

to rants about fake news:

Burned Your Tweet (@burnedyourtweet)

.@RealDonaldTrump I burned your tweet. pic.twitter.com/B0f1v0FkEb

March 28, 2017

No Trump tweet is safe. It has has had the seal of approval from Simone Giertz, the queen of shitty robots, who tweeted: This is the most amazing thing Ive ever seen.

Simone Giertz (@SimoneGiertz)


March 29, 2017

The jury is out on whether the robot is some sort of publicity stunt. New York magazine noted the robot followed some accounts of people working in creative and advertising agencies.

As of yet, the robots creator has not come forward. The Guardian has contacted @burnedyourtweet for comment.

The replies to Trumps tweets have become prime social media real estate. And @burnedyourtweet follows a tradition of automated accounts based on his 140-character outbursts although these tend to be Twitter bots rather than feats of mechanical engineering.

Earlier this year, an advertising company created the Trump and dump bot, which automatically trades stocks based on his negative tweets about companies.

Read more: https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2017/mar/30/trump-gets-flamed-robot-prints-and-burns-presidents-tweets

How Much Fashion Bloggers Earned on Instagram Post

Street style, blogger Chiara Ferragni — The Blonde Salad — arriving at Balmain Spring Summer 2017 show held at Hotel Potocki, in Paris, France, on 29 September 2016.

Image: Sipa USA via AP

LONDON Instagram’s fashion stars can be a source of style inspo, ideas and useful tips.

While fashion bloggers’ feeds are replete with effortless-yet-flawless photography, reality couldn’t be further from the glamorous lives portrayed via social media.

Whether bloggers are publishing posts sponsored by brands, or parading outfits paid for by brands during fashion week, shrewd bloggers and brands have turned social media into a big-buck business.

This monetisation of fashion blogging a.k.a. “influencer marketing” has caused something of a rift in the fashion industry, with Vogue‘s creative digital director lashing out at fashion bloggers who are killing the fashion industry.

“Note to bloggers who change head-to-toe, paid-to-wear outfits every hour: Please stop. Find another business.”

“Note to bloggers who change head-to-toe, paid-to-wear outfits every hour: Please stop. Find another business. You are heralding the death of style,” Sally Singer Vogue‘s creative digital director wrote in an editors’ piece about Milan Fashion Week.

In an even more scathing rebuke, Alessandra Codinha Vogue.com fashion news editor hailed fashion bloggers’ behaviour during fashion week “embarrassing” and “funny.”

“Rather than a celebration of any actual style, it seems to be all about turning up, looking ridiculous, posing, twitching in your seat as you check your social media feeds, fleeing, changing, repeating,” wrote Codinha.

But this incessant checking of social media has nothing to do with vanity it’s pure business.

Mashable talked to a spokesperson for Influencer Marketing Agency an agency that matches brands with bloggers, vloggers and influencers to find out just how much money is behind the posts filling our Insta feeds.

According to a spokesperson for the agency, the fee per post is “highly dependent” on the audience the brand wishes to reach and the platform on which the influencer is publishing.

“This of course includes reach, strength of relationship with their followers and credibility,” the spokesperson told Mashable.

“Influencers can earn anywhere from below 100 ($110) to 100 times this amount (10,000, $11,006) for content they create in collaboration with a brand,” the spokesperson confirmed.

Jenny Woods, founder of the social media startup for marketing teams Zaapt, told Mashable that a fashion and lifestyle Instagram star with 1.3m followers was recently paid 5,000 ($6,104) for an Instagram post.

“Another brand paid 17,000 ($20,749) for a reality TV star to tweet and Instagram about their brand in a series of posts. The influencer has 1.2m followers on Instagram,” Woods continued.

Woods says that an influencer with more than 1 million followers can expect to earn between 5,000 ($6,104) and 20,000 (24,406) per post.

When it comes to adding a price tag to an Instagram post, the more followers the better. And, the massive reach commanded by social media savvy celebrities like Kim Kardashian West can carry a six-figure sum.

Chris Kyriacou founder of iSocial social media agency told Mashable that the fee depends entirely on how engaged the influencer’s audience is, and on the “value” of certain influencers.

Earlier this year, a marketing expert told Page Six that the Kardashians earn hundreds of thousands of dollars per Instagram post.

“Now, for $400,000, you get the Kardashians to post on Instagram,” the source told Page Six, referencing makeup, clothing and music as items she frequently posts about.

Time to start building your social media following, perhaps.

Read more: http://mashable.com/2016/10/12/fashion-bloggers-paid/